Sunday, March 2, 2008

The Grim Matsav

Numerous friends and family members have asked me about the matsav (the situation) in Israel and the escalating tensions with Gaza so I figured it would be appropriate to comment about it using this forum.

The town of Sderot in the negev has long had to deal with rockets launched from the Gaza strip. Even when Israel unilaterally withdrew from the Gaza strip, the rockets didn't cease, dispelling any myth that if Israel would end the "occupation" terrorism would also end. This week things worsened as Hamas launched up to 30 rockets per day. Thankfully most hit open fields or damaged property, with few casualties or serious injuries. However, the town of Sderot is constantly on "red alert", giving a minute warning of an incoming rocket. Children and adults are constantly running for shelter disrupting any normalcy that might exist. Most of the rockets have been primitive, but this week Hamas used a more refined and exact Russian rocket that hit the coastal city of Askelon. It served as a wake up call to Israelis and the government- how long until Hamas gets its hands on a rocket capable of reaching Tel Aviv or Jerusalem? Would the world be as judgmental of Israel's right to defend itself if Hamas was able to hit the population center of Israel?

Unfortunately, Israel has little choice when it comes to responding to such terrorist attacks. On the one hand- if it doesn't do anything, rockets will continue to rain on the cities and towns in the Negev potentially causing a substantial loss of life. Additionally, it sends the message to Hamas and the other terrorist networks that Israel will use restrain because it is a democratic country that has to respond to public demand and world outcry. It also allows Hamas to build a greater stockpile of rockets that will be capable of reaching places like Tel Aviv. On the other hand- if Israel retaliates, Hamas will hide behind its civilian population and many innocent people will die, making Israel look like it is using excessive force and punishing the local population. Additionally, it kills the possibility of progressing with a peace deal with Mahmoud Abbas since he buckles under pressure by Palestinians in the West Bank to cease negotiations while Gaza is being attacked. Hamas has obtained a disproportionate amount of power when it comes to dictating the Middle East peace process. Even though it isn't a real negotiating partner, it can derail the process with a few rockets and favorable news coverage.

The media has a way of over simplifying this crisis as it describes the escalating conflict- making Israel look overly retaliatory even in light of Hamas' aggression. Although I don't agree with every point that Helene Cooper makes in this article, it shows the complexity of the issue and the lack of choices that exist for all parties-including the US- when dealing with a terrorist network (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/03/world/middleeast/03diplo.html?hp). The reaction in Israel is equally as grim- while most people recognize that Hamas is not a viable peace partner, they see little choice but to bring them to the negotiating table. This tit-for-tat ping pong match is not a long term solution and will continue to hurt Israel's image in the world court, but until the people of the Gaza strip value their independence and children's future more than their desire to annihilate Israel, a real peace deal is not a viable option.

I am not trying to be self-righteous and claim that Israel has done no wrong when it comes to the Palestinian people and the Gaza Strip. Israel has definitely made its share of mistakes. But no other country in the world has had to show as much restraint in dealing with its enemy as Israel. This little country is surrounded by countries and terrorist organization that want to see the demise of the Jewish state and its people. I don't think any country in the world would want to trade spots with Israel yet they are the first to point fingers and judge.

The optimist in me wants to believe that a solution exists and that we haven't reached deep enough to find it. But the realist in me recognizes that you can't shake hands with the person that will simultaneously try to stab you in the back and strive for your destruction. I hope I am wrong...

Friday, January 25, 2008

My First Business Trip

Someone recently told me that I will never be good at things like updating a blog or keeping a journal, so I am going to try to prove him wrong! That is the hard-headed Israeli in me :)

Wow where to begin- well I will give an update on this past week because I have issues with long term memory! I had the amazing opportunity to go to London last week. I got an email from Brett, the CEO of Teach First which is the TFA styled program in Great Britain, saying that I should book my ticket because I am invited to London for the following week. So I quickly got everything in place and headed off to England for the first time. I have to say, someone else paying for it is a huge perk considering how expensive the pound is!! I spent 4 whirlwind days meeting with everyone tied to TF- praticipants, ambassadors of the program, staff, TFA alumni that are now on TF staff, donors, professors, etc. The goal of the week was to learn how the program is similar to and different from TFA and what programmatic features we can apply to Israel (I will write another post about my job so in the meantime just pretend like you know what I am talking about). What is incredible is that the program looks like a replica of TFA on paper but once I began to sift through their recruitment, admissions, training, on-going support and methodology, I realized how different it really is. Teach For Israel's Tomorrow, as the program will be called here, will combine a lot of of best practices from both programs since it can't attract people based off idealism like Teach For America does nor can it focus solely on leadership development like Teach First. I am really excited to synthesize everything I learned and apply it to the program here.

So now to the fun part. I stayed an extra four days in London with my good friend and former college roommate Sarah. We hadn't seen eachother in five years since she transferred to Columbia but it took us no time to fall right back into our old ways. We would stay up late giggling in bed, devour incredible chocolate and have deep conversations that reflected how intimately we knew eachother despite the elapsed time and distance. I, of course, managed to do all the touristy things- Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, Tate Museum and even sat in on a House of Commons debate about transportation- but the best part was tea time at the Cambridge Club. Sarah and I met up Saturday afternoon and decided that I can't leave London without having a proper tea time. So we walked toward the ritziest members-only club (Sarah, using her journalist techniques, realized that she can be a member as a graduate of Columbia). However we quickly realized that I wouldn't be allowed to enter because I was wearing jeans. Sarah looked me up and down and said "Well you know what you are going to have to do? Button your coat all the way up and wear it as a dress! Take off your pants Yamit!" We giggled like school girls as we entered this glamorous place, looking like a terrible mish-mosh. She was wearing a shirt dress over tights and my crappy shoes and I was hearing my coat as a dress and her knee high boots so that I wouldn't look as naked as I felt. I couldn't believe they took us seriously! But we did in fact have tea and a muffin in their lounge and giggled the entire time by the sight of ourselves and whenever we realized that we are sitting among London's high society.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

A Newly Discovered Cranny

My brother and mom have been in Israel for the past week and a half visiting the family. It has been such a whirlwind week that I can't even remember everything we have done and ate along the way. The best part has definitely been the time spent together- oohing and aahing over Gal, long walks in the park all the way to the beach, and of course the full-out Israeli breakfast's at my sister's place every morning. We start our day right with fresh bread, cheeses, Israeli salad, fruit salad and yogurt... Since they are on vacation, none of us are holding back :) This past weekend the entire family went to Almog, a kibbutz converted to a guest house just north of the Dead Sea. It was so nice to spend shabbat together with all of my Israeli family... the only downside was that my grandma, who was sponsoring the weekend, couldn't make it to Israel after falling and injuring her shoulder. We are hoping that she will come in April.

Rather than describing the entire week in vague detail, I am just going to write about one tiyul (trip) that really touched me. I feel like I know Israel pretty well considering how many times I have been here since leaving the country at the age of 8. But every once in a while, I find a new nook or cranny that I have never heard of but it ends up being a treasure chest. Machon Ayalon was one of those treasures that I recommend to anyone visiting Israel and trying to get a better understanding of the struggle to create a Jewish State.

Machon Ayalon is a kibbutz located just outside the city of Rehovat. It was created by members of the youth movement in 1945 whose aim was to create kibbutzim and settle the land. They were approached by the Haganah, the Jewish underground movement during the British Mandate, with the dilemma of a lifetime- change their plans and instead of working the field and settling the country as they had foreseen, work in an underground clandestine ammunition factory to help the Haganah defend the Jewish people. The consequences of their decision could be fatal. The Kibbutznikim ultimately decided that although it deviates from their original plan and the consequences could be grave, this was their opportunity to make a significant impact on the future of the Jewish people.

The ammunition factory was built underground, with the British only kilometers away, in one month! The Haganah had the foresight to build the factory under a bakery and the laundry mat of the kibbutz. I love the reasoning behind it! It was built under the laundry mat for three reasons: (1) Should the British bring dogs to the area, the gun powder would be masked by the scent of the laundry soap... it also looks the same so any spilled gun powder would not be cause for alarm; (2) The laundry machine is very loud and covers up the sounds of the factory below; (3) Most importantly, there is a chimney that releases all of the steam from the laundry machine but also serves as a way for the underground factory to be ventilated. All of these reasons are very understandable and logical but I couldn't figure out why underneath a bakery. It was only when we entered the bakery and I saw the enormous oven that I realized the reasoning... the oven covers up the hole that was used to move the machinery underground. It takes and hour and a half to move the oven which is why the hole had only been used three times. Each morning the workers headed out to the field, where they were supposedly working, and entered the laundry mat through the back door. The laundry machine was moved and a narrow stair well was uncovered that led them down to the factory.

Ironically, many people in the kibbutz didn't know that there was an ammunition factory right below them. Those that were unaware of the secret were called giraffes because "their heads were in the sky and they couldn't see below them." The workers made every effort to keep this important secret. The Haganah created a "tanning room" in the factory so that the workers would get some color (they were supposedly working in the field but many were getting pale and sick). Additionally, each afternoon they would clean their clothes and hair to rid of the bronze pieces. There were many procedures in place to keep this mission a secret.

The workers produced approximately 14,000 bullets per day with a grand total of 2.25 million bullets. Thankfully, in the three years that the factory operated, there was no major incident. David Ben Gurion, the first prime minister of Israel, called this one of the most important acts of courage during the struggle for the creation of the State of Israel. When Israel gained its independence in 1948, the factory was moved above ground as the secret was no longer necessary. I walked out of Machon Ayalon so proud of the struggles that people endured in order to create the state. It reminded me that Israel is such a young country, about to celebrate its 60th anniversary this May. While there are many problems here- the peace process, education, the religious vs. the secular, etc.- Israel is still in its defining stage. We can't expect to have all the answers yet nor can we compare Israel to countries that have been in existence for 200 years... they are not on the same plane. What we can do is look to the future and ask. "what do we want Israel to look like on its 200th birthday? And what do we need to do to get there?" Often times we lose perspective when talking about Israel and the Middle East; Machon Ayalon put it back into focus for me.

I will end this post with a story that our guide told us that really touched me. In the three years that the factory was operational, there was only one serious injury. There is a machine that trims the bullets because they are purposely made too long. The machine is called the mohel (for my non-Jewish readers- the mohel is the person that circumcises boys when they are 8 days old). The worker that operated the mohel was not paying attention one day and cut off his finger. An elderly gentleman came to tour the factory last year and as the guide was telling the story of the accident, the man raised his hand and says, "That was me!" and then showed his hand with the missing finger. He continued to explain that the job was boring and that he entertained himself by looking at the girl's legs that was working next to him. He then said, "Look at the women next to me... it was worth losing a finger for her!" The couple got married a few years after the War of Independence. The factory workers became a family down there... with the common secret and mission, they built a community of their own. So while maybe they didn't get the kibbutz that they originally expected, they gained a different purpose and in the process helped create the State of Israel.


(Addendum: I just found this great History Channel special about the Ayalon Institute... it really captures this incredible story http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQNw5MA3DII)

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Looking Back at the Classroom

I have been thinking a lot of my students recently. I don't know what prompted it... whether it is being removed from it all or an e-mail I received from a former colleague. I keep thinking- what if I could have done more? What if I took more initiative and tried to connect to my most troubled kids on a deeper level? Would Seric have channeled his aggression towards his abusive step-father in a more productive manner? Would Tariano have realized his full potential and apply himself despite a community culture that often doesn't value book smarts as much as street smarts? Would Toshia have been able to better cope with being a white girl in a majority black and Hispanic school? Within the 70 minute class period, dealing with personal issues was often secondary to learning math and gaining life skills. Maybe I had it all backwards... In a way, it would have been nice to teach elementary school where I could devote all of my attention to my 20 students instead of the 70 in my classes plus the other 150 in the 6th grade. I wonder how my kids are doing in the 7th and 8th grade... I wonder if they take some of the lessons learned in my classroom and apply it to their day-to-day lives... and I wonder if they internalized the reasoning behind showcasing a "College of the Week" each Monday and that they believe in their ability to go to college as much as I do. Unfortunately with the teaching profession you don't always get to see your final results. Yes, you see how much your students progressed academically and often times personally by the end of the school year. But you aren't privy to know if you changed the course of their life even in the slightest.

Maybe it is the A-type personality in me that thinks I should have been better, I should have tried harder. Are A-type personalities condemned to a life of dissatisfaction and discontent?!!! This dissatisfaction makes me feel like I am not done in the classroom... who knows, maybe I will return to teaching one day....

Friday, November 30, 2007

My Week Off, Part II


Lee Anne and I got an amazing Old City Tour from my uncle. We visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (the site of Christ's crucifixion), the Christian Quarter and the Southern Wall of the Temple Mount.
We continued our Holy City adventures at the Shuk... there is nothing like it before its closing on Friday afternoon... In fact, a religious guy went around blowing the shofar to signal the start of the Shabbath. We then made an incredible Friday night dinner at Maya and Liron's house.



We spent Lee Anne's last day in Israel at the old port city of Yafo (Jaffa). This is us with Tel Aviv and the boardwalk in the background. Our last "supper" was at a delicious classic Israeli style restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean Sea... it was breathtaking.
It was so much fun having a good friend visit me all the way in Israel. Very rarely do I get to show Israel's riches to someone who isn't familiar with it already. At each step of our trip, as I saw Lee Anne's amazement with Israel, my excitement for being here this year only grew.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Turkey Day

I wouldn't have even known that it was thanksgiving had it not been for the "Out of Office" automated replies I kept getting when I sent e-mails to the TFA headquarters in NY. How quickly I forget American holidays that defined vacations from school! Nevertheless, I was going to my friends' house, Michael and Noah, for dinner. So I made my mom's infamous carrot ring and brought it to our Americans-only dinner (even their Singaporean roommate wasn't invited!) They went all out to make it a Thanksgiving feast- turkey, mashed potatoes, wine, salad, corn bread and even pecan pie. The Moroccan cigars were a little out of place but nevertheless delicious. Ironically, one of the other guests was a girl I know from GW. The only thing missing was football and family... I get to see the latter in a month and I can forfeit on the pigskin for now. Happy thanksgiving everyone!

Thursday, November 22, 2007

My Week Off, Part I


My friend Lee Anne decided, on a semi whim, that she needs a vacation and bought a plane ticket to come visit me. So I worked my butt off the week before so that I don't feel guilty during my week of travel (it didn’t really work so there was definitely more than one night where we pulled out our laptops and got some stuff done… at least we both work for Teach For America and have that same crazy work ethic). So I left Tel Aviv Friday evening with my big back pack and met her at the airport. It was so fun to see a familiar face from Charlotte who was with me during two of the hardest years of my life (I am certain I will still be saying this when I am 65 years old). Since it was Friday night there was no public transportation, so we took a shuttle to my aunt’s house in time for Friday night dinner. My family is not known for skimping on meal sizes, and once again we didn’t. The next day, we woke up to the smell of Liron’s amazing shaksuka (it is semi-boiled eggs in an amazing spicy tomato based sauce). Once again, we didn’t leave hungry. We took a little drive to the promenade in Jerusalem so Lee Anne could see a panoramic perspective of the holy city and get a little explanation of the modern day conflict. Later that day we went to Abu Gosh, an Arab village outside of Jerusalem. They had the common sense to realize that all the non-religious Jews that live in Jerusalem don’t have anywhere to eat their hummus on Saturdays so they opened up restaurants to serve our needs. We had delicious hummus, warm pita, Israeli salads and chicken skewers (I swear this whole blog won’t be about food). That night we went to Emek Refaim in Jerusalem so that Lee Anne could experience the buzz of Jerusalem after Shabbat ends.

The next morning we took the bus to the Dead Sea. We stayed on a kibbutz called Ein Gedi, which literally is an oasis in the middle of the desert. There are beautiful bushes, cacti and palm trees there, not to mention an amazing pool. The contrast of the pool and the greenery compared to the desert mountains is unreal. We spent the afternoon at the natural spa that the kibbutz operates. It contains sulfur pools which are great for lowering blood pressure and fixing ailments, although not so great on my silver jewelry. We then floated in the Dead Sea and conducted science experiments with the salt water (Lee Anne taught chemistry in Charlotte). It was when we were floating in the Dead Sea that Lee Anne finally realized that she is in Israel. We then finished our lovely day at the spa by rubbing down in mineral mud. Although we were tempted to mud wrestle, we were afraid to offend the religious Jew next to us… oh well, next time!

The next day we caught our bus to Eilat. Another example of crazy Israeli culture: Days before this trip I booked seats for us on the bus from the Dead Sea to Eilat. However, when we got on the bus, it was so full that people were standing and some were sitting on the stairs. While technically we could have kicked the people out of our reserved seats, I would feel awful if some 50 year old would have to sit on the floor for the three hour ride. So instead we roughed it and plopped on the floor by the bus driver. It ended up being fine, and numerous people kept referring to us as “sweethearts” for being so easy going about the whole thing. Anyway, we stayed at a beautiful hotel in Eilat, called Agamim (lakes). The hotel is built around the pool. All the rooms on the first floor have private entrance into the pool… it is unbelievably beautiful. We were so captured by the pool and the hotel that we didn’t even go snorkeling in the end, like we had originally planned. The sea was anyway a little too cold for my wimpy self. My sister called to tell me that while we are tanning in 80 degree weather, it was pouring rain in Tel Aviv and that they had three power outages already.


To make things even better, I managed to score two FREE massages. The hotel was really empty because it was the middle of the week so the spa was giving free five minute back massages at the pool. Mine quickly turned into a twenty minute rub down since there was no one else waiting! The next day, I made friends with a French 60-year-old guy who wanted to play me in sheshbesh (backgammon). We communicated in a random mix of Hebrew, English, French and Spanish. I managed to learn the numbers 1 through 6 in French as after each roll he would say “ahhh quatre et deux”. He was a riot. One of the spa workers was watching us play so when I beat the French guy, he offered to put a little wager on it: If I beat him he would give me a free foot massage but if he won I would have to buy him some treatment at the spa. Needless to say, I won five-to-one and managed to remind him of that as he was pressing on the pressure points in my foot.


On our last night, Lee Anne and I treated ourselves to a $7 bottle of wine (it tasted much more expensive) and drank it on the beach. With the sound of classic-rock-turned-techno in the background, we enjoyed our last night in Eilat. The highlight was when a 65 year man, who clearly had a little too much to drink, decided to go skinny dipping by himself. The lifeguards in us got a little nervous and were glad to see him finally coming out of the water. He continued to walk along the beach butt naked all the way to the public showers before he finally got dressed. We knew that nothing could top that off, so finally headed back to our hotel.

Now I am on my way back to Tel Aviv, as I have a meeting tomorrow morning. Lee Anne stayed in Eilat with her friend from the recruitment team at TFA so that they can go to Petra, Jordan tomorrow.